007's Preserve of Choice: Little Scarlet

From Ian Fleming's 1957 thriller, "From Russia With Love":
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Breakfast was Bond's favorite meal of the day. When he was stationed in London, it was always the same. It consisted of very strong coffee... two slices of whole wheat toast, a large pat of deep yellow Jersey butter and three squat glass jars containing Tiptree "Little Scarlet" strawberry jam; Cooper's Vintage Oxford marmalade and Norwegian Heather Honey from Fortnum's.

Wilkin & Son still makes Little Scarlet; I used to like it but grew tired of what seems to me too much sugar, a cloying sweetness.

Cooper's Vintage Oxford marmalade (Rough Cut is my preference), on the other hand, is superb, orange-y and tart and just right on toast or even (dare I reveal a secret?) eaten right from the jar.

I can't speak to Bond's brand of honey as I've never had it.

I learned about 007's morning preferences - and much more - from an excellent article about Little Scarlet in today's Washington Post Food section.

Bonnie S. Benwick noted that Little Scarlet is a century-old recipe, usually the most expensive bottle in the jam aisle.

Currently it runs $10-$13 for a 12 oz. jar.

Benwick's story focuses on the occasional unavailability of Little Scarlet.

She remarks that about one-third of the time, over a 20-year period, her trip for a jar of this jam is fruitless, its slot on the shelf empty.

She investigated, and learned that the strawberries used in Little Scarlet - Fragaria virginiana - were originally cultivated in the U.S., the plants now used by Wilkin & Son having been brought to England around 1900.

The berries must be picked over a three-week period starting in mid-June.

A pound of them takes five times longer to pick than regular strawberries.

Ian Thurgood, Wilkin & Sons' sales director, told her, "The plants are barely cultivated and are unpredictable croppers. We often think it is madness to grow them commercially!"

Thurgood said he knows of no other company in the world that grows and processes Little Scarlets.

Little Scarlet jam is sold in some 60 countries, being most popular overseas in Japan, Germany, and the U.S.

Thurgood said, "While the preserve is a major product for us, we have struggled to produce four or five months' stock. We find ourselves in the unfortunate situation of having to refuse to supply to our potentially biggest U.K. customers."

And so Little Scarlet's scarcity is explained.

Thurgood said, "We contend that the only way to enjoy the flavor is on fresh-baked scones, with clotted cream."

I'm up for - and down with - that.

FunFact: so great is the need for help during harvesting season that Wilkin & Son invites the public to come and pick fruit.

Many Eastern European students apply, and are put up by the company in its own housing.

Some people have been returning for more than four decades.

They have a 20-Year Strawberry Club: "Gentlemen receive a special tie, and ladies an elegant pin... exclusive to Strawberry Club members."

Need I mention that it goes (almost) without saying that Little Scarlet is "By Appointment To Her Majesty the Queen Jam and Marmalade Manufacturers?"