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December 24, 2008

Virtual Shalom Harlow on the virtual catwalk for Viktor & Rolf — The end of the fashion show as we know it?

Long story short: Viktor & Rolf's Spring/Summer 2009 show (above) never really happened — it was entirely computer generated, premiering on the duo's website in October of this year, then making its way onto YouTube in recent weeks.

Amanda Fortini's December 14, 2008 New York Times magazine story about the new new thing in bleeding edge fashion follows.

    Catwalk Clones

    Viktor & Rolf, the Dutch design duo known for their quirky, theatrical aesthetic, tend to create clothing that, like the Surrealist art it is often compared to, can be high concept and more than a little bizarre. And so, when Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren decided to create a fashion show for the Internet, they began with a typically unusual notion: this would not be an ordinary production, in which footage from a live event is later posted online. This would be a runway show that could exist only in cyberspace.

    The spectacle, broadcast in October on the Viktor & Rolf Web site, was staged on a virtual catwalk in a virtual “grand salon” entered by way of a majestic marble staircase. The flashy clothes — geometric-print separates and crystal-encrusted dresses, black frocks set off by furniture-size accessories — are worn by a digital version of Shalom Harlow, the Canadian supermodel, cloned many times over. As she struts down the catwalk in precariously high heels, techno music thumping in accompaniment, she occasionally passes herself; at times, three Harlows occupy the runway. In the grand finale, 12 incarnations of Harlow appear for a curtain call, while an oversize Viktor and Rolf hover above like puppet-masters.

    Creating this nine-minute clip of virtual reality required quite a bit of actual work. During two 14-hour days, five cameras filmed at various angles to capture Harlow’s every nuance. The footage was then integrated into a digital backdrop — the real Harlow was transfigured into numerous pixelated versions that were then placed on a pixelated catwalk. And although she — they — walk(s) with a slightly automated gait, the effect is eerily authentic. “We reproduce everything: the reflections, the shadows,” says Eric Tong Cuong, president of La Chose, the Paris-based company that helped create the video.

    Of course, as several critics have fretted, the film raises the question of whether the traditional fashion show, with its limited audience, will be rendered obsolete. Rolf dispenses with this worry, noting that the pair is planning a brick-and-mortar show next season. “It will be difficult to replace a live feeling of seeing fabric,” he says. Then again, maybe it won’t. “We can go much further,” Tong Cuong says. “We can make a catwalk on Mars! Or on Venus! Or on top of two buildings, like Spider-Man. Whatever! We can build anything virtually.”

December 24, 2008 at 04:01 PM | Permalink


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Comments

Art for the body- yes, that makes sense, too. :-)

Posted by: Lilorfnannie | Dec 25, 2008 1:43:15 PM

O.k.- thanks for some insight- I still don't get it, but that helps. Truly, people really wear these things? What percentage of those clothes in this video, for example, would actual people really buy and wear? Because no offense, but I thought the model was sadly thin, and the clothes were freakish. They were toned way down from some fashion show clips I've seen, but still, there's not one item I would ever wear in a million years. Especially that last tunic thing with the giant spiral- are you seriously saying someone would actually buy that and wear it? Where would they wear it- to some party? I don't think I've ever known or even met anyone that would. I know it sounds snarky but I mean it, I can't fathom it. I've always wondered about this, I thought surely it all must be a giant put-on.

Posted by: Lilorfnannie | Dec 25, 2008 1:42:15 PM

How do you tell a pixel super model from the real thing?

Posted by: wombat | Dec 25, 2008 10:31:26 AM

Actually there are lots of pieces here that worn individually, show up in more places than one may imagine. The clothes are not made as competition amongst designers. Victor and Rolf, like Galliano for example, create highly structured, one might even say weird pieces of clothing, that nevertheless are superbly well constructed and that DO translate into normal wear for those of us who are not models. I saw many lovely items here as well as some that I would term ugly. The shoes were sensational and the accessories - earrings, bracelets, necklaces... well they were just wonderful. I wish I had legs long enough to wear those tights but I digress...

The video is phenomenal. I found it interesting that it generated excitement for me. Gone is the sense of entitlement and buzz that access to a real live show gives (which is similar to that of attending an incredibly snazzy party) but how wonderful to be able to enjoy it in my pjs at 7 am!

Live fashion shows will never disappear. But I can understand a desire by the designers to be more cutting edge as well as save money. It takes oodles of it to put on a live gig never mind the stresses of finishing and showing the collection.

I loved this. Thanks for posting Joe.

Posted by: Fashion loving Miles | Dec 25, 2008 8:12:54 AM

it's art for the body.

Posted by: ronnie | Dec 25, 2008 7:25:41 AM

I've never once in my life seen anyone wear anything remotely resembling anything on these fashion shows, and I've seen a few these kinds of clips online so I don't think I just didn't notice- no, never ever have I seen anyone actually wear these clothes. I'm convinced that the whole fashion industry, with these catwalks like this and all- it is nothing but gay male fashion designers sitting around playing at dressing up human barbie dolls. The whole point of these fashion shows is to compete to see who can make the craziest outfit, so they make catty remarks to each other about the other person's designs. These fashion shows are done purely for the fashion designers to show off to one another. That's what I believe- it's the only possible explanation that I can find!

Posted by: Lilorfnannie | Dec 25, 2008 12:40:18 AM

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