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September 17, 2010

The return of Chef Chang


Constant readers will recall my ode to master chef Peter Chang and his singular creations (from the top down: Dry-Fried Eggplant with Hot and Numbing Pepper; Roasted Fish with Green Onion and Pepper; Hot and Numbing Beef Rolls), which appeared here on March 31, 2010.

But don't take my word for it: Calvin Trillin's "Annals of Gastronomy" article about Chang in the New Yorker and Washingtonian food critic Todd Kliman's Oxford American "6,755-word love letter" titled "The Perfect Chef" should give you a sense of the regard in which others hold this wizard of Szechuan cuisine (below).


Marijean Jaggers emailed me this past Tuesday with just one word in the subject line: "Chang!"

The email contained a link to a story by Dave McNair that had appeared the same day on the Hook website, the long and short of which was that chef Chang planned to sign a lease this week for a restaurant that "... should open in December or January."

I'm so excited about this development, having become, like so many others who've experienced his artistry, a devotee.

The enigmatic Chang suddenly left town in March of this year, the latest departure in a career studded with them.


I dawdled and delayed my first visit to his local restaurant at the time, A Taste of China, such that it didn't occur until a week before his unexpected exit.

I'd planned out the menus for my next five visits by then, and was dumbfounded and exasperated by my having put off going for months after I'd learned he was in town.

That won't happen this time around.


My chefchang Twitter page, dormant for months after he left town for points unknown, will be the center of all the news I can gather on the return of the master as the date for the grand opening approaches.

September 17, 2010 at 04:01 PM | Permalink


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Tweetup at Chang's! The cilantro fish rolls are on me :0)

Posted by: Libby | Sep 17, 2010 7:34:28 PM

Thanks Joe,

I feel and look like Pavlov's dog!

Posted by: Joe Peach | Sep 17, 2010 4:56:49 PM

What time you gonna pick me up?

Posted by: jo | Sep 17, 2010 4:34:39 PM

I further propose a mass Tweetup at the new restaurant.
It's time we met, Joe.

Posted by: Marijean | Sep 17, 2010 4:32:18 PM

If Calvin Trillin and the BOJ endorse a chef - that's gold!

Posted by: 6.02*10^23 | Sep 17, 2010 4:31:17 PM

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